The staff at Hardwood Flooring are always keen to offer their advice and expertise. A little help and advice from those in the know can go a long way, helping to make the most of your flooring purchases experts and a success of your installation and maintenance.
Please note that where certain accessories are mentioned these can be found in our Accessories section(***link***).
- How Much Hardwood Flooring Do I Need?
Measuring The Room
Once you’ve decided which type of flooring you require****link to Choosing the right floor page*** you’ll need to know how much to order. To find this out you will need to calculate the total floor-space of your room.
ñ Standard Rectangular/Square-Shaped Rooms
Take a tape measure and measure once across the width of the room (at the room’s widest point) and then once along the length (at the room’s longest point) and then multiply these two amounts. The resultant figure is the amount of flooring you require. e.g. If your room is 5m long and 3m wide, multiply 5 x 3 and you get 15. That means you require 15-square metres of flooring.
ñ L-Shaped/Odd-Shaped Rooms
The principal is the same as above, but you must begin by dividing the room up, as close as you can, into individual rectangular sections. Work out the size of each of these sections using the method above and then add the amounts together.
Unseen Extras
Remember to measure into doorframes and allow for any fireplaces, recesses, alcoves or cupboards.
Allow for Wastage
Remember to allow an additional 10% of your total floor-space to cover for wastage. Small mistakes and miscalculations may occur during installation and there may be tricky sections that require additional material.
Mind the Expansion Gap
All kinds of flooring (be they solid wood, engineered wood or laminate) react to some degree to the moisture in, and temperature of, the air around them. These reactions result in the sections of flooring changing size and shape. For example, in the winter, when the air is more humid, the sections can expand, closing any gaps between them and pushing out towards the edges of the room. Alternatively, during the summer, when the air tends to be drier, the sections may contract, increasing the gaps.
For a successful flooring installation you will therefore need to leave a 10mm expansion gap around the edges of the room to allow for any natural expansion in the wood or laminate sections. This expansion gap can be maintained during installation by spacer kits and post-installation can be covered by accessories such as scotia or skirting boards.
- PRE-INSTALLATION PREPARATION
Proper preparation is essential for ensuring the successful installation of any flooring material, be it solid wood, engineered wood or laminate.
Preparation – Solid Wood Flooring
Much of a successful solid wood flooring installation rests upon the preparatory process being undertaken correctly. The method of preparation depends upon the installation method you have chosen and the type of sub-flooring upon which you will be laying your solid wood.
Preparation for Glue-Down/Adhesive Installation
Wooden Sub-Floor
ñ Cover with a half-inch plywood base to create a level platform.
Concrete Sub-Floor
ñ Ensure that the concrete is dry before flooring installation (min 60 days drying time. Moisture content reading must be no greater than 4%).
ñ Concrete must form a level and stable platform. If necessary, use a self-levelling compound to fill any uneven areas.
ñ Ensure concrete is free of contaminants such as grease, paint or dirt (avoid using solvent-based cleaners).
Adhesive-Backed Underlay
ñ When floating a wood floor upon an adhesive-backed underlay, ensure to begin the process by laying a 1000-gauge damp-proof membrane.
Preparation for Nailed-Down Installation
Wooden Sub-Floor
ñ Ensure that the wooden sub-floors are level.
ñ Secure any loose areas to avoid creaking.
ñ Do not nail onto plywood sub-flooring alone as it will not be strong enough to hold the nails.
Concrete Sub-Floor
ñ The flooring will be nailed onto wooden battens (use battens with a min 40mm depth).
ñ Lay your battens onto a damp-proof membrane.
ñ Lay your battens approximately 400mm apart.
ñ Follow nail-down instructions as for wooden sub-flooring.
Preparation – Engineered Wood Flooring
The installation of engineered wood flooring should generally follow the preparatory rules as for solid wood flooring(***link/anchor here to the page/text***). There are some differences, however:
ñ The acclimatisation period before fitting of engineered wood can be reduced to 48 hours.
ñ Most types of engineered wood flooring are suitable to be laid over underfloor heating systems but we advise that you check with the manufacturer and your heating engineer that your chosen flooring and underlay are suitable for this purpose before purchase.
Preparation – Laminate Flooring Installation.
Laminate is the favourite flooring material amongst DIY enthusiasts, mainly because it is by far the simplest to install.
The basic pre-installation principles as applied to solid wood installation (click here for more detail***link/anchor here to the page/text***) will apply for laminate flooring, however, there are some differences:
ñ Leave the laminate to acclimatise for 48 hours prior to installation to allow for moisture absorption.
ñ Make sure that your sub-floor is level, smooth off any uneven sections, and use a self-levelling compound if necessary.
ñ Make sure sub-boards are securely nailed or screwed down and that no screws or nails are protruding, as these may damage the laminate.
ñ Make sure any concrete sub-flooring is fully dry.
ñ Always lay a damp-proof membrane over concrete sub-flooring.
Underlay For Laminate Flooring
Prior to fitting any laminate flooring you will need to put down an underlay. There are three main types of underlay for use beneath laminate flooring:
ñ Polyfoam Underlay
This is the thinnest available type of underlay and is suited to laying laminate onto a firm, dry and level sub-floor e.g. wooden flooring, chipboard, plywood or hardboard. Lay the polyfoam underlay over the floor surface and trim to fit. Join any sections lengthways and ensure to leave a 16mm gap around pipes.
ñ Combined Underlay
Combined underlay is so-called because it combines a damp-proofing material and an underlay. Being thicker than polyfoam underlay makes it better suited to more uneven sub-floor surfaces. This thickness also delivers a degree of sound insulation. Ensure to tape any joined sections securely in order not to negate the damp-proofing function.
ñ Wood-Fibre Boards
For the most uneven sub-flooring use wood fibre boards. Being much thicker they will compensate for greater irregularities in the surface. They will also provide greater degrees of sound and heat insulation. As with standard wood flooring, wood-fibre boards will need to be left to acclimatise before laying (for approx 24 hours). Stagger the joints between boards and leave the standard 10mm expansion gap around the edges of the room.
- HARDWOOD FLOORING INSTALLATION
LAYING SOLID WOOD FLOORING
Solid wood flooring is the hardest flooring type to install but with the use of the correct tools and methods anyone with reasonable DIY/carpentry skills should be able to do the job.
Unlike with laminate or engineered wood, solid wood does not employ one-click fitting systems. There are two main methods you can use to lay your solid wood flooring: glue-down and nail-down.
Nail-Down Fitting
Nail-down fitting is the traditional method of laying solid wood flooring. This method can only be employed when laying onto wooden sub-floors, or onto concrete floors when wooden battens have first been laid upon the concrete.
Nails should be driven at a 30-degree angle through the tongue and into the sub-floor using the correct gun and correct length of nails.
Glue-Down Fitting
Glue-down is a more modern method of laying solid wood flooring. It involves gluing the solid wood panels directly onto the sub-floor beneath. The wood is pressed onto the adhesive and then left overnight to dry.
Laying Solid Wood – General Advice
Below is some general advice that is relevant whatever method you use for laying your solid wood flooring.
When laying solid wood, remember to leave a 10mm expansion gap around the edges of the room to allow for expansion of the wood sections. Use spacers to achieve this gap.
Always lay your boards lengthways towards the room’s light source (i.e. the room’s main window).
Start at the left-hand wall and work your way across to the right-hand side of the room.
Continue laying your boards until you reach the end of the row at the right-hand wall. This last board will probably need to be cut to fit the space. Again remember to leave your 10mm expansion gap.
Begin your second row of wood sections by using the cut-off piece from the right-hand side of the first row. This will off-set the boards and make for a much stronger floor.
Continue as above, remembering to fit your spacers along the side walls as you go.
Once you have completed laying the wood sections remove the spacers in the gap around the edge of the room.
Replace your skirting boards as necessary. The skirting might cover the expansion gap but if any gap is still visible this can be hidden using a scotia or trim that matches the finish of your wood. (N.B. Skirting should only be attached to the wall and not to the wood. Scotia and trim should only be attached to the skirting and not to the wood.)
LAYING ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING
ñ Engineered wood flooring is generally simpler to fit than solid wood thanks to the boards incorporating tongue and groove or one-click fitting systems.
ñ Nailed-down installation is not recommended for most engineered wood flooring types.
Remember to leave a 10mm expansion gap around the edges of the room to allow for expansion of the engineered-wood sections. Use spacers to achieve this gap.
Always lay your boards lengthways towards the room’s light source (i.e. the main window).
Start at the left-hand wall and work your way across to the right-hand side of the room. Lay the tongue side of the first board towards the wall.
Lock the second board into the first using the click-together system (slide the second board in at a 30-degree angle so that it slots in when lowered).
If necessary, use a rubber mallet to guide subsequent sections into place.
Note that some engineered wood will require you to use adhesive when joining together (if it does not have a lock-together system). If it is required, apply the adhesive to the top side of the groove and immediately wipe away any excess using a damp cloth.
If not laying your engineered wood as a floating floor you can use the full glue-down method. In this method the adhesive must be applied to the wooden sub-floor onto which your engineered wood is to be fitted.
Continue laying your boards until you reach the end of the row at the right-hand wall. This last board will probably need to be cut to fit the space. Again, remember to leave your 10mm expansion gap.
Begin your second row of engineered-wood sections by using the cut-off piece from the right-hand side of the first row. This will off-set the boards and make for a much stronger floor.
Continue as above, remembering to fit your spacers along the side walls as you go.
Once you have completed laying the engineered-wood sections remove the spacers in the gap around the edge of the room.
Replace your skirting boards as necessary. The skirting might cover the expansion gap but if any gap is still visible this can be hidden using a scotia or trim that matches the finish of your engineered wood. (N.B. Skirting should only be attached to the wall and not to the engineered. Scotia and trim should only be attached to the skirting and not to the engineered wood.)
LAYING LAMINATE FLOORING
Laminate flooring is surprisingly straightforward to install, one of the reasons it is so popular amongst DIY enthusiasts. The fitting systems employed by most types of laminate mean that each section simply clicks into the next, slotting together like the pieces of a very large jigsaw.
Remember to leave a 10mm expansion gap around the edges of the room to allow for expansion of the laminate sections. Use spacers to achieve this gap.
Lay your laminate boards lengthways towards the room’s light source (i.e. the main window).
Start at the left-hand wall and work your way across to the right-hand side of the room. Lay the tongue side of the board towards the wall.
Lock the second board into the first using the click-together system (slide the second board in at a 30-degree angle so that it slots in when lowered).
Note that some laminate boards will require you to use adhesive when joining together. If it is required, apply the adhesive to the top side of the groove and immediately wipe away any excess using a damp cloth.
Continue until you reach the end of the row at the right-hand wall. This last board will probably need to be cut to fit the space. Remember to leave your 10mm expansion gap.
Begin your second row of laminate by using the cut-off section from the right-hand side of the first row. This will off-set the boards and make for a much stronger floor.
Continue as above, remembering to fit your spacers along the side walls as you go.
Once you have completed laying the laminate sections remove the spacers in the gap around the edge of the room.
Replace your skirting boards as necessary and if required hide the expansion gap using a scotia or trim that matches your laminate. (N.B. Skirting should only be attached to the wall and not to the laminate. Scotia and trim should only be attached to the skirting and not to the laminate.)
- HARDWOOD FLOORING MAINTENANCE
SOLID & ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING – CLEANING & MAINTENANCE
Treat your solid or engineered wood floors as you would any investment and they will pay you dividends. Once-a-week care following a few simple rules can deliver a lifetime of service.
Maintaining Solid & Engineered Wood Flooring
Coat your floor with specialist lacquer, varnish or oil before general use to help protect the surface of the wood.
Your engineered wood flooring may come with a factory-applied finish. Therefore you should only use products or cleaners on these surfaces as recommended by the manufacturer.
By placing a doormat directly outside and inside any rooms that lead to the exterior of your home you will be sure to snare any dirt or abrasive particles before they have a chance to damage your floors.
Make sure to lift your furniture whenever it is necessary to move it around – do not drag it across your wooden floors, whatever you do. Stick felt pads or castors onto the ends of furniture legs to avoid them scratching or denting the surface of the wood.
Try and avoid getting water on your wooden floors (be particularly careful with solid wood). Be sure to clean up any liquid spillages immediately using a clean, dry cloth or paper towel.
Don’t allow pet cats or dogs to run wild across your wooden floors and make sure to keep their claws in check to help prevent scratching.
Whilst stiletto heels look great on ladies, the dents they can leave on wooden floors are far from pretty. At least keep your heels in good condition or, at best, remove your high heels before walking on your wooden floors.
Fit blinds or sheer curtains where possible to prevent direct sunlight from discolouring the surface of your floors.
Sanding Solid Wood Floors
Over time your wooden floors may suffer from surface damage and the lacquer, oil or varnish coating may become worn or distressed.
Sanding is one way of removing these surface blemishes and restoring the wood to its original glory. Once a wood floor has been sanded you can reapply varnish, oil or lacquer as necessary to re-protect the wood.
Solid wood floors can be sanded many times over, which can literally extend their lifetime for decades.
Sanding Engineered Wood Floors
Engineered wood cannot be sanded any more than one to three times, depending upon the thickness of the presentation (uppermost) layer. Typically the sanding process removes 0.5mm per sanding, so be aware of the thickness of the wood’s presentation (uppermost) layer before beginning any sanding.
Cleaning Your Wooden Floors
When washing, only use cleaning products that are specifically for use on wooden floors. Use as little water as possible, preferably with a slightly damp cloth or almost dry mop – and be especially sparing with water on unsealed flooring.
If your engineered wood flooring came with a factory-applied finish make sure to use a product recommended as suitable by the manufacturer.
When cleaning your wood floors use a damp mop (avoid soaking the wood) and use a cleaner specialist to the lacquer or varnish coating you have applied.
Vacuum or sweep your wooden floors around once a week, or whenever dirty if they’re in a less frequently used room.
Vacuuming is generally better than sweeping as it sucks the dirt straight up and avoids dragging scratchy particles of grit or sand across the floor. Cylinder vacuum cleaners are generally better than the hard wheels of upright vacuum cleaners, but if you do have an upright make sure to use it on the special bare floor setting, or with the soft brush attachment.
LAMINATE CLEANING & MAINTENANCE
Laminate flooring is extremely hardwearing and resistant to staining – no wonder it is such a popular choice in today’s modern home environment.
Whilst laminate might be durable, it isn’t entirely damage-proof. Follow a few basic guidelines and you can keep your laminate in tip-top condition for longer.
From time to time, your laminate will also need some basic attention, in order to maintain its lifespan and keep it looking as good as the day it was first installed.
Maintaining Your Laminate Floor
ñ Use of a doormat directly outside and inside any rooms that lead to the exterior of your house, will trap dirt before it has a chance to make it on to your laminate floors.
ñ Do not drag your furniture when moving it around; lift it and you won’t scratch the laminate surface.
ñ Use felt pads or castors on the ends of furniture legs to avoid marking the laminate surface.
ñ Avoid overly wetting your laminate floors and make sure to clean up any spillages immediately with a clean, dry cloth or paper towel.
ñ If you do happen to damage the surface of your laminate then fix the scratch using the specialist colour filler that matches your particular laminate.
ñ Warning – you can never sand a laminate floor.
ñ Warning you should never wax a laminate floor.
Cleaning Your Laminate Floor
ñ If you happen to spill anything on your laminate flooring then make sure to wipe it up immediately. This will best prevent any contaminants from staining or even warping the laminate surface.
ñ You should regularly vacuum your laminate flooring, preferably using a cylinder vacuum cleaner. (If you do have an upright vacuum, make sure to use it on the special bare floor setting, or with the soft brush attachment.) Vacuuming is preferential to sweeping as sweeping can drag hard particles of dirt and grit across the laminate causing scratching.
ñ Use a specialist laminate cleaning product to wash the floor and wipe away any dirt. These laminate-specific products are preferential to using water as water can warp the laminate and often isn’t as effective a cleaner.